Well the jinx on this bike strikes again... just as I had got it running, and fixed the throttle cable, the kickstart failed as I was trying to do a compression test. It sags and hangs pathetically as shown below.
... clearly an issue that will need sorting but at least it might offer the opportunity to fix the oil leak along the kickstart shaft at the same time. I cant find any accounts of how to sort this out so I'm winging it atmo. Firstly I removed the kickstart lever, gearchange lever and magneto cover so I could access the gearbox drain plug and drained the oil using a hose joiner as spigot to try and keep it clean for reuse- its only been in the bike 2 days!
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| Magneto cover removed- joiner in drain hole |
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| Draining the oil |
I could then remove the 5 cover screws- all the same length. I'd anticipated needing an impact driver but in fact all came out easily with a 90 degree screwdriver.
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| Removed case screws and tapped to free the case |
To disconnect the clutch operating lever I slackened the clutch cable and detached it at the handlebars end.
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| Slacken and detach clutch cable from handlebar lever |
I could then pull it through and detach the ball from the actuating lever at the gearbox end.
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| Gearbox end of clutch cable- ball engaged with operating lever |
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| ...and now freed |
This freed the adjuster from the operating pad.
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| Cluitch operating lever position before clutch cable detached |
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| and afterwards- freed from the operating pad. |
I could then carefully pull the cover forward, it needed a tap as it was secured with some type of RTV. no gasket was evident.- I wasn't sure if the kickstart spring was under tension- or attached to the cover and I didn't want to drag anything more out of the case than necessary. There is supposed to be an O ring here to seal the kickstart shaft from minor leakage- I was convinced that mine had failed but in fact there was no trace of an O ring anywhere. The cover pulled off...
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| Case cover removed. |
...leaving the levers and kickstart spring on the engine side
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| Shafts in position, kickstart shaft and spring top left. Note no O ring on kickstart shaft. |
The spring simply lifted out and it was evident that it has simply sheared off at the outer attachment.
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| Spring removed- note broken tang on exterior side. |
the inner location is intact.
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| Internal tang intact. |
The remains of the spring are still in the cover. The picture below shows the kickstart location with broken spring- note there is no bush here. However there is a recess which could be the locating spot for the O ring shown in the parts diagram but completely absent in the bike. The small bush visible to the right is the locating bush for the clutch rod.
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| Remnants of broken tang in cover. |
The splines of the kickstart shaft are clearly visible here, and below them is a silvery groove that might be for the missing O ring? I will need to see what fits here and how it can go back together into the case. It seems odd to use an O ring here since the shaft rotates and the case obviously does not. An oil seal would be more appropriate, although the design of these cases would not accept one.
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| Spring removed |
I found that there was a gasket which I peeled off... I have a new one on order.
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I cleaned the cover in the sonicator, and once clean I could see the gearchange shaft O ring inside, positioned above the gearchange shaft bush. My first thought was this would not be easy to change without removing the bush. However it was simple enough to hook it out with a probe and replace. Both these case O rings are 5/16 id and 1/16 thickness.
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| Gearchange shaft O ring visible above bush in case. |
I replaced with a green seal ring as these are what I had to hand.
The kickstart shaft exits through the case where there is a moulding that provides space for the kickstart return spring. I found that there were several sharp burrs on the inside of this bulge caused I think by the broken ends of the failed kickstart spring. I filed these smooth in case they interfered with the new one.
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| Burrs inside spring recess- file these smooth. |
There was also a groove for the missing kickstart shaft O ring. I found one that would fit. I had previously not been certain where the O ring should locate but this was the obvious place. The O ring could be rolled onto the kickstart shaft up to the shoulder such that it would locate into this groove when the cases were closed. I checked the cases could still close smoothly before thinking about installing the new kickstart spring. I fitted the tang into the shaft first and then pulled the spring round until the second tang could locate in the case hole. Of course my spring had broken when I took this apart, so it was not engaged at the case end. Since I cant find a clear diagram of exactly there it should locate I am going with the most obvious solution which is this hole just behind the shaft. This does pretension the spring but by surprisingly little. You may need to refit the kickstart lever so you can rotate the shaft to check the spring is properly engaged.
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| Kickstart spring location- tang positions |
Fit the kickstart shaft O ring
When refitting the cover its important to make sure the banjo-shaped gearchange return spring is centralised over gearchange shaft and the kickstart spring is a neatly coiled as possible or the cases wont close easily. Don't forget the O ring on the kickstart shaft
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| Spring centralised |
I suspect that this case will need to come apart again at some point during the shake down so to help with this and avoid damage to the gasket I stuck it to the case side face using Permatex
If I need to remove the cover the gasket should remain in position on the motor side. I am finishing this blog with parts diagrams and also a copy of a very useful maintenance/tuning guide.
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